OLD VINE MOUNT ETNA SINGS THE SONG OF GRAND CRU CHABLIS
The deep volcanic soils of Mount Etna in Sicily have delivered savory, smoky, and mineral-tinged liquid poetry for Italian wine lovers, but mostly for their red wines. However, the whites from Mount Etna have improved by leaps and bounds over the last twenty years. When at their best, they deliver 4K definition minerality with a smoldering fringe of volcanic nuance. The wine on offer here is one of Sicily's best whites, and features some of the oldest vines of native grape Carricante in existence. Fessina's "A' Puddara" is from a two hectare plot of southfacing vines planted in 1950 in Biancavilla on Mount Etna at 900m. Barrel fermentation and lees aging lends a Burgundian patina to the style with a faint toasty reduction that I find exotic and thrilling. The quality here flirts with the weight and timbre that I adore in Grand Cru Chablis. The team that has been put together here also commands immediate respect with winemakers Federico Curtaz (ex Gaja) and Giandomenico Negro (ex Benanti) running the show. Try the 2019 for a more zippy and fresh look at Etna's whites, or try the 2016 for a more mature release drinking at its peak.
