Sylvain began and still continues work as one of Burgundy's best consulting enologists, but he has shocked our community with the success of his 15-hectare Marsannay domaine. You'll find exceptional wines that rank among the Côte d'Or's finest (and last remaining) values.
Whole-cluster vinification, long macerations, low sulfur and extended aging are the tools employed in producing some of Burgundy's most wistfully aromatic, complex, and joyful wines. Reviews from barrel samples are to be discounted. Sylvain doesn't sulfur until bottling. Having visited myself, I've experienced the bizarre disconnect between the barrel sample experience and the final results. Rest assured that the wines and the winemaker are among the most prominent voices of this next generation. - BRANDON KERNE, MASTER SOMMELIER
Neal Martin on the Estate: "Sylvain Pataille has the craziest hair in Burgundy, a wild explosion of locks that I would describe as part Noddy Holder circa Come On Feel the Noize and part Barbara Streisand circa A Star Is Born. This year I discovered his brother has similar locks of hair, so much so that if they leaned together they risk sticking together like Velcro.
Pataille has popularized Aligoté more than anyone else, so I expect him to make delicious, occasionally thought-provoking Aligoté wines. In 2019 he duly delivers. Just sip his Marsannay Clos du Roy to see what I mean. Incidentally, Pataille told me that nowadays all his Aligoté vines are farmed by horse, after which he proceeded to excoriate tractors for causing soil compaction that damages the roots and water uptake. Pataille is now so synonymous with Aligoté that is easy to overlook the fact he is a dab hand with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Admittedly the multitude of cuvées can become a bit confusing, not helped by that awful blue label that is at times illegible. But the wines are well worth the effort and eyestrain."
From Neal Martin of Vinous
"The 2021 Marsannay Rouge takes time to really unfold on the nose, red cherry and mulberry scents, a touch of spiciness and baking powder. The palate is well balanced with finely-chiselled tannins, quite racy acidity with a nervy finish. Will be easy to drink in its youth but partnered correctly."