91-93 Points from Allen Meadows: "This is also pungently reduced with the only perceptible aromas that of wood toast. The medium weight flavors are not quite as dense though they are noticeably finer with stunningly good intensity along with excellent delineation on the even more complex and lingering finale. This is terrific."
By Kelly Rau, Art of Cellaring
Domaine Buisson-Charles has been synonymous with Meursault for decades. Now on their 5th generation, this small family-run domaine has really dialed in their focus, and the wines continue to reach new heights. Meursault is home, so the majority of their wines are from many of the village's best parcels, but they also make a few lieux-dits in an aromatic, whole cluster style within Pommard and Volnay that are equally worth your attention.
The biggest secret to the domaine's success is their choices at harvest and vinification. Winemaker Patrick Essa prefers to harvest much later than his peers, believing that many producers harvest far too early and end up with one dimensional wines that lack the complexity. He strongly believes that extra hang time is needed for full complexity and flavor development and that Meursault's terroir keeps the acid high despite fuller ripeness. After harvest, the whole bunch white grapes go through a long gentle pressing followed by vinification in wood and maturation in barrel for around 18 months, ranging from all neutral to up to 30% new oak depending on the cuvée. Additionally, the wines rest in tanks for a few months before bottling to increase precision, a practice becoming more and more common with the most talented white winemakers in Burgundy, such as Jean-Marc Roulot. The resulting white wines are floral and pure fruited Chardonnays that capture the full expression of Meursault's underlying character. The reds see a large portion of whole clusters (up to 60%) to enhance the finesse and perfume of the domaine's Pommard and Volnay sites, and similarly to the whites, they also go through 18 months of elevage with up to 50% new wood.
These are truly classic, soulful Burgundies that do not chase fads like extreme reduction or toasty oak and instead focus on elegance, mid-palate weight, and the perfect balance of high acid and ripe, healthy fruit.
