TATOMER: EMMERICH KNOLL PRODIGY BRINGS AUSTRIA TO THE CENTRAL COAST
What would happen in Emmerich Knoll made wine in Santa Barbara County? Tatomer is our best chance to find out. It is an unparalleled project, proving that world class Riesling can come from an area far more commonly associated with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. This niche project is run by Graham Tatomer, and his profound dedication to California Riesling, complemented by his foray into Grüner Veltliner, came to the forefront with the establishment of his eponymous winery in 2008. However, his connection with these grape varieties had roots that predate this milestone. His initial encounter with Riesling occurred during his tenure at Santa Barbara Winery during his high school years. At this time, in the early 2000s, mentorship for someone looking to create high quality Riesling in this area was scarce, and so Graham decided to venture to Austria.
It was on his journey to Austria's Wachau region he found both mentorship and a sense of kinship within the Knoll family. His relationship with Emmerich Knoll, a few years his senior, unfolded as a series of lessons that balanced ancestral legacy with the dynamic evolution inherent in each new vintage. Starting with a harvest internship in 2003, Graham worked with Weingut Knoll for 4 years.y Simultaneously, he spent time in Santa Barbara, working alongside Adam Tolmach of Ojai Vineyard. The dividends reaped from these experiences have proven enduring. Beyond the immediate lessons concerning Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, Graham gleaned nuances from the Knolls' practices that have been integral to his own flourishing solo endeavor and which we all now get to benefit from when drinking these exquisite wines.
In the contemporary era, Graham's vinicultural output bears the indelible imprint of Austrian tradition, characterized by a captivating interplay of potency, precision, and intricacy. However, his wines retain an unmistakable individuality, deeply rooted in Santa Barbara's terroir. He has discerned optimal sites for these two white grape varieties and has collaborated closely with their growers to influence their cultivation practices, even in the face of reduced yields. His approach often involves multiple harvest passes, celebrating diverse textures and flavor expressions. Further winnowing ensues to uphold purity and create singular bottlings. Additionally, Graham's proficiency extends to the favored varieties of the region. He has displayed a prowess that positions him alongside his peers in crafting lithe, refined Pinot Noir, albeit in limited quantities. - MEG VAN TI
