Those that are tapped in will recognize the familiar dog whistle: high-hedging with a particularly labor-intensive whole cluster fermentation where each stem has its rachis (central stem) removed. It's what Leroy does, and certain producers have found success replicating the techniques. The thought is that the altered stems provide the lifted aromatics without changing the pH of the wine or providing any bitterness. Each rachi must be removed by hand, a very laborious and time intensive process that Mortet believes is worth it. In addition, oak usage has also been reduced in recent years, and now each cuvée has a finely tuned amount of new oak commensurate with the fruit concentration rather than a general formula based on vineyard status that the estate used to have.
Per William Kelley of Wine Advocate: "Arnaud Mortet's own label goes from strength to strength as his viticulture makes its impact felt on these recently acquired parcels. Soils are cultivated mechanically, canopies are hedged high and late (at 1.50 meters, more or less the limit of an over-row tractor) and deleafing is thoughtful rather than systematic. In the winery, Mortet increasingly emphasizes manually processed grapes, with the rachis of each cluster cut out by hand, leaving berries on their pedicels intact. In the cellar, François Frères is ceding ground to Cavin—but without any concomitant shift in style in the direction of the overtly meretricious. The result? Wines that are supple and perfumed, with plenty of depth and flesh at the core, without any structural asperity. They can be drunk young—as no doubt they are drunk by many consumers today—but they will age with grace too. In short, Mortet is at the top of his game today and settled into his contemporary style, and everything reviewed here comes recommended."
