94 Points Neil Martin, Vinous: "The 2022 Volnay Clos des Chénes ler Cru offers a mixture of red and black fruit on the well-defined nose that exudes ripeness but retains plenty of freshness, thanks to the 70-80% whole bunches. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins and very well-balanced with gentle grip on the composed finish. Nicely focused and persistent, this is an excellent Volnay."
91-94 Points Jasper Morris: "1 x 350 litre barrel, two thirds whole bunch vinification. A dense purple with a black rim. Raspberry and blackberry on the nose. There is a richness to the fruit which justifies its tasting position after Caillerets, though perhaps less finesse, quite muscular here with firmer tannins. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Nov 2023."
It has been a minute since we have had a prominent white Burgundy estate such as this arrive in Texas with good availability. For the last ten years, a visit to Burgundy for me has meant an opportunity to drink Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet. Put frankly, I freaking love these wines, and no discussion of Chassagne-Montrachet is complete without mentioning the name Bernard Moreau. Each year, this renowned estate bottles some of the village's most pristine, utterly delicious, and intellectually engaging wines.
"...one of the very finest white Burgundy estates of all." - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy 2nd Edition
"Readers will know the high esteem in which I hold Domaine Bernard Moreau and winemaker Alexandre Moreau. You want the best Chassagne-Montrachet? This is where you call first." - Neal Martin, Vinous
"Beautifully balanced and differentiated by site, these are some of the most compelling white Burgundies being made today, and I once again warmly recommend them to readers." - William Kelley, Wine Advocate
Our seasoned white Burgundy collectors will recognize Bernard Moreau as one of the greatest of all Chassagne-Montrachet estates, but you may not be up to date on the current state of affairs. That makes sense as availability in Texas has been confused and sporadic at best. As of the 2021 vintage, brothers Alex and Benoit have decided to split the estate into two separate operations and the Domaine Alex Moreau label will continue to be made in the old Bernard Moreau winery. While both domains will be exciting to watch, Alex was the winemaker, and Benoit spent his time in the vineyards.
Alex Moreau has maintained the harmonious style of this iconic estate, defying current trends in Burgundy for lean, reductive, flinty wines. As has been the case since I can remember, the wines remain sumptuous and textured with perfect ripeness balanced by an uncanny knife's edge of acidity and structure, faithfully translating the underlying terroir. It's a timeless style that shouldn't be forgotten or abandoned as we chase trends. These are purist classics that any Ramonet or Jacques Carillon lover would adore. The oak at the estate is measured and understated, often seeing only 10-20% with the exception of the Grand Crus. Do not sleep on the Bourgogne Blanc or village Chassagne, which deliver quality above and beyond their appellation. In fact, Alex Moreau's Chassagne-Montrachet village is in contention for one of the top Chassagne village wines of the vintage.
