CULT WINE OF THE LANGUEDOC WITH BEST-IN-COUNTRY PRICING
A quick look online will reveal the scarcity of this diamond in the rough. Typically gobbled up by France's Michelin-starred restaurants, a scant amount of these wines arrive in the USA and even less to Texas. It would be easy to write that these are GSM blends from the limestone soils of the Languedoc that give off Rayas-esque floral and spicebox aromatics, but that wouldn't capture the beauty here. Montcalmès is a bit more prickly around the edges, and although it could be described as Burgundian, it takes a bit of time to come out of its shell. When it does, it demonstrates why it has a reputation as one of the Languedoc's most important reference-point wines.
The estate started in 1999, after owner/winemaker Frédéric Pourtalié had done apprenticeships at some of France's most prestigious farmhouse estates. He spent time with two of France's greatest champions of underrecognized appellations, Alain Graillot in Crozes-Hermitage and Laurent Vaillé at La Grange des Pères in the Languedoc. The region, Terrasses du Larzac, was a part of the Coteaux de Languedoc until the work of Montcalmès and Mas Julien launched its reputation upward and separated the zone from the rest of the Languedoc with its iron- and limestone-rich soils.
The two sites that Pourtalié utilizes are distinct and contribute to the cool feel of this wine that belies its Mediterranean coastline origin. The first is north-facing and on limestone scree, where he sources the Syrah (60-65%) and Grenache (~20%). The second is south-facing and on galet roulés, as you might find in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This warmer site is where he sources the Mourvèdre, which loves heat and sunshine. The wine ages in old casks from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti for two years before release.
- Brandon Kerne, Master Sommelier
