1985-1990 Syrah from Les Peyrouses on the plain beside the Rhône, aged 5-6 year oak casks 6-8 months
From Brandon Kerne, MS, Art of Cellaring
JÉRÔME DESPESSE: CORNAS' QPR CHAMPION RETURNS
I truly believe Jérôme Despesse belongs alongside Jamet, August Clape, and Thierry Allemand as among the Rhône's greatest. This was only confirmed with the 2018 vintage, which EASILY stood against Thierry Allemands's Chaillots in a blind taste-off in our Northern Rhone masterclass last year. With zero retail availability and 125cs production for the 2022 release, you won't hear about it elsewhere.
When we heard that Jérôme chose not to release his 2021 wines due to exceptionally low volumes, we were disheartened. Two month ago when we heard the 2022s were on the water, we found out that it's to all of our benefit as this year's Côtes du Rhône release includes Jérôme's entire 2021 production blended in with his 2022 Côtes du Rhône vineyard for a triumphant multi-vintage release. This 100% Syrah wine is typically reserved only for top restaurants in France, and this return is marked by a special label titled "Éphémère".
On to the Cornas...for those that haven't yet had the pleasure of trying it. Few times will a wine knock me off my feet like this one, but after trying the 2017 vintage, we immediately committed to almost the entire parcel that was allocated to Texas. This year, quantities remain relatively miniscule as Jerome only produces 125 cases per year. We tasted the 2022 Cornas and Éphémère Côtes du Rhône a few weeks ago and WOW! This has all the stuffing of my previous favorite, the 2017 release, but in an even more savage package. I recommend purchasing enough to drink a few now and put a box away for the future.
For reference, here was our writeup from the 2017 vintage that ignited our passion here at Art of Cellaring: "I will plant my flag today and say this is the greatest value in Cornas I have ever had, and I feel even more confident being that this was tasted on back-to-back days with two of the greatest wines from the region. This wine comes from a lieu-dit at the Southern end of Cornas called Les Côtes. These old vines, planted by his grandfather more than fifty years ago, are located right next to those of Auguste Clape. They come specifically from a tiny plot called Le Craux that produces less than 125 cases per year!!! Production is so tiny that Jerome has to work another job at the Amorim cork factory in order to make a living. This balances the fine line between weight and complexity impeccably. It has the savage spice and singed, smoky savory character we love in Syrah with a tremendous line of freshness and tannic structure bracing its spine. We took a position on this and grabbed most of what came into Texas, and think this will be one of the most desired wines of the region within the next decade."
